Traditionally, roof valleys were closed with shingles (closed valleys). In recent years this practice has been replaced with open valley installation: shingles on either side of the valley separated by metal flashing.

Although closed valleys are still occasionally used, it is no longer the preferred choice because of inferior water resistance. Valley metal moves ice, snow, and water off the roof much faster. IKO’s Blueprint for Roofing states, “For longer roof performance, open metal valleys are recommended.”

We agree and have abandoned the use of closed valleys.

How Do You Know If Your Roofing Contractor has Properly Installed Your Valley Metal?

Like many things about your roof installation, it’s difficult to judge the quality of the installation unless you’re up on the roof.  Here are some things to check if you want to make sure:

• Does the estimate state that the contractor is installing valley metal?  If not, that is the first sign that your roofer is not up to date on industry best practices.
• Does the estimate identify the underlayment that will be installed underneath the valley metal?  Proper installation of valley metal requires underlayment be installed first. The underlayment can be felt paper, rolled roofing or, for maximum protection, Ice & Water Protector.
• Are the cut-out lines in the valley straight? Your contractor should have used a chalk line to cut out a 6- to 8-inch strip through the centre of the valley. This is a sign that your roofing contractor is precise and careful.

A Done Right Roofing Extra

Manufacturers recommend that you tar underneath the shingle where it overlaps the valley. We go an extra step to ensure the absolute best performance: a valley starter strip.

Done Right Roofing installs the underlayment in the valley, then the metal flashing. Then we chalk our lines. For added protection, we install a starter-strip shingle on the chalk line on both sides of the valley, then shingle the roof surface, and finally cut out our valley centre.

This starter strip adds an extra layer of protection that is then shingled over. This is much better than just tarring underneath a few shingles and ensures you get the absolute best performance out of your roof.

Moulds caused by roof leaks can damage your home and your health.

Without proper leak barriers and attic ventilation, you may experience leaks or excess moisture causing mould growth. Mould can grow not only in your attic but anywhere in the home that an undetected leak is present.

Most homeowners don’t even consider mould to be a problem unless they can actually see it. But mould often starts growing in invisible areas like attics, basement, air ducts, or even wall cavities.

Mould is a Bigger Problem Than You Think

There are many articles and studies that confirm mould is a serious health issue:

• Health Canada considers mould growth in residences to be a potential health hazard.
• According to a Mayo Clinic study, nearly all chronic sinus infections are a result of moulds.
• It is estimated that 50% of homes have mould problems.
• A 300% increase in the asthma rate over the past 20 years has been linked to moulds.
• The Environmental Protection Agency considers all moulds to have the potential to cause health effects.

Mould Can Cause Many Health Issues

Anyone may suffer adverse effects from the existence of mould. Those most susceptible include the elderly, pregnant women, infants and young children, and people with allergies, chronic respiratory illness and/or chemical sensitivities, as well as those with weakened immune systems.

According to Canada Toxic Mould Inspection & Remediation, mould can cause the following reactions:

• respiratory problems, such as wheezing and difficulty in breathing
• nasal and sinus congestion
• eyes-burning, watery, reddened, blurry vision, light sensitivity
• dry, hacking cough
• sore throat
• nose and throat irritation
• shortness of breath
• skin irritation
• central nervous system problems (constant headaches, memory problems, and mood changes)
• aches and pains
• possible fever

Better to be Safe than Sorry When it Comes to Your Roof

Although leaks and excess moisture can come from many sources, it is a good idea to check your roof and attic and make sure there are no problems. If you are replacing your roof, you owe it to your family to make sure you are hiring a quality roofing contractor to prevent future leak and moisture problems.

WARNING: If your asphalt shingles are not installed to manufacturer’s installation guidelines, the shingle warranty is void.

Done Right Roofing does not represent any residential roofing shingle manufacturer or work exclusively with any product.  However, from our vast roofing experience we do know that certain shingles are better suited for certain roof slopes or weather conditions.

We have selected only those manufacturers and products we feel offer homeowners the best value. Our selection is limited to architectural laminate shingles, because this new era of shingles offers the best overall performance. This shingle is composed of fibreglass mat that is covered in asphalt and then coated with granules.

The three major factors to consider when selecting a shingle are:

• How long do I want this roofing system to last?
• Does my roof have a low slope or a steep slope?
• Does the location of my home expose it to any extreme weather conditions such as high wind or hail?

Based on your answers to these questions, the chart below should help you select the perfect product for your home. Remember, no matter how great the roofing product, it will only live up to your expectations if it has been properly installed by a qualified roofing contractor.

Click here to download the Residential Roofing Shingles Comparison Chart

Roof flashing is the most under-addressed aspect of the roofing system by homeowners and contractors alike. Wherever there is a penetration in your roof, such as a chimney, a skylight, or a dormer, there are various types of roof flashing that need to be properly installed in order to seal the penetration to the roof surface.

Below are some of the most common types of roof flashing that can become problem areas if not properly installed:

How Do You Know That Your Roof Flashing Has Been Properly Installed?

Each type of flashing requires very specific cuts and application procedures that your roofing contractor has mastered. However, here are a few things you can look out for:

• Is the flashing galvanized or painted to prevent against rust?
• Did your roofing contractor use a dab of black tar to cover all exposed nail penetrations to the flashing?
• Has the flashing been properly overlapped by siding, shingles, or counter flashing?
• Remember, water runs down. As long as everything is installed onto the roof from top to bottom, and then under the siding, or counterflashing, then the water is unlikely to defy gravity.

A Done Right Roofing Extra

Done Right Roofing does a lot of little things to exceed the quality of installation required by the building code and manufacturer warranties. As an example, we use what we call “Back Pan Shingles”. After the flashing is installed, we nail a shingle turned upside-down over the back of the flashing to double-seal it to the roof surface.

Proper roof ventilation is important for temperature and moisture control.

During the summer, excess heat that builds up in the attic during the day results in high energy costs for cooling. Also, moisture produced within the home may move into the attic if ceiling vapor barriers are not used. If this moisture is not exhausted from the attic it can condense and cause insulation and construction materials to deteriorate.

The American Institute of Architects estimates that 90 percent of homes in the U.S. have unacceptably high levels of moisture. Surely Canadian homes suffer from the same problem.

The Results of Inadequate Roof Ventilation Can be Serious

Here are some problems associated with an improperly ventilated attic space:

• Your roof deck can warp or deteriorate and become spongy and dangerous to walk on.
• The roof deck will not be allowed to breathe, leading to dry rot.
• The adhesives used in the plywood can deteriorate because of condensation.
• Water vapour will condense on anything metal inside the attic, causing the metal to rust and leading to more serious problems.
• In colder climates, high inside humidity combined with low outside temperatures can cause frost to form on the bottom of the roof deck, potentially leading to dry rot.
• Insulation can trap moisture which will reduce the R-value of the insulation. Studies have shown that a 10% increase reduces your insulation’s effectiveness by about 15%.
• Excess moisture can create an environment for the growth of certain molds and mildew that can cause dry rot and health problems.
• Cooling units will need to be serviced or replaced prematurely because of excessive use.
• Ice dams are more likely to form on your roof, leading to leaks.
• Most shingle warranties require a lot of ventilation—as much as one square foot of net free ventilation area for each 150 square feet of floor space to be vented.

Make Sure You Have an Experienced Roofer

Most older homes have insufficient attic ventilation. This needs to be remedied when installing a new roof. Adequate roof ventilation is a requirement of the Alberta Building Code and of most shingle manufacturers. Failure by your roofing contractor to install proper ventilation can void the shingle manufacturer’s warranty.

In some ways, roof ventilation is as much of an art as it is a science. A trusted and experienced roofer who has worked in your area for years may be a better judge for your particular roof than any research study.

How roof ice dams are formed.

Roof ice dams are caused by the continual melting and refreezing of the snow on your roof. The upper part of your roof deck is heated by the warm air in the attic, causing snow to melt and run down the roof toward the eaves. Because the eaves extend over the attic, they remain cold and the water refreezes. Ice dams cause water to back up underneath the shingles or fascia boards, leading to potential damage to the roof deck and even the ceilings and walls in your home.

Leak Protection

To protect against leaks, an effective leak barrier, a form of underlayment, should be installed on your eaves underneath the shingles. Different types of underlayment may be used depending on the slope of your roof and other conditions. Lower slope roofs will require a more specialized ice and water protector.

Underlayment keeps backed up water from entering your home but it doesn’t prevent ice dams from forming.

An Ounce of Prevention Equals a Pound of Cure

Roof ice dams can be prevented by keeping the attic space cool. This can be accomplished through proper insulation and ventilation. Insulation helps keep warm air from your home out of the attic, and ventilation removes any excess heat from the attic. Increasing the R-Value of your insulation will not only help protect against ice dams but will reduce your heating and cooling costs. Your roofing contractor should install a proper amount of ventilation.

Don’t Take Chances

Water backups can cause serious damage to your roof and the rest of your home. Furthermore, shingle manufacturers’ warranties generally do not cover leaks caused by water backup.

Protect yourself by ensuring you hire a roofing contractor that will install proper eave underlayment and ventilation.

General

Roofs shall be protected with roofing, including flashing, installed to shed rain effectively and prevent water due to ice damming from entering the roof.

Ventilation

• Controlling the flow of moisture by air leakage and vapour diffusion into attic or roof spaces is necessary to limit moisture-induced deterioration. Given that imperfections normally exist in the vapour barriers and air barrier systems, recent research indicates that venting of attic or roof spaces is generally still required.
• Except where it can be shown to be unnecessary, where insulation is installed between a ceiling and the underside of the roof sheathing, a space shall be provided between the insulation and the sheathing, and vents shall be installed to permit the transfer of moisture from the space to the exterior.
• The unobstructed vent area shall be not less than 1/300 of the insulated ceiling area.
• Where the roof slope is less than 1 in 6 or in roofs that are constructed with roof joists, the unobstructed vent area shall be not less than 1/150 of the insulated ceiling area.
• Required vents may be roof type, eave type, gable-end type or any combination thereof, and shall be distributed
  • uniformly on opposite sides of the building,
  • with not less than 25% of the required openings located at the top of the space, and with not less than 25% of the required openings located at the bottom of the space.

Flashing

• The intersection of shingle roofs and masonry walls or chimneys shall be protected with flashing.
• The intersection of shingle roofs and walls clad with other than masonry shall be protected with flashing.
• The intersection of built-up roofs with masonry walls or chimneys shall have a cant strip at the intersection, and a roofing membrane shall be mopped over the cant strip and not less than 150 mm up the wall.
• Where a pipe or duct penetrates a roof, the joint between the pipe or duct and the roof shall be flashed and be made watertight.

Valley Flashing

• Where sloping surfaces of shingled roofs intersect to form a valley, the valley shall be flashed.
• Valley flashing shall be installed over continuous sheathing.
• Closed valleys shall not be used with rigid shingles on slopes of less than 1 in 1.2.
• Open valleys shall be flashed with at least
  • one layer of sheet metal not less than 600 mm wide, or 2 layers of roll roofing.

Eave Protection

• Eave protection shall be provided on shingle, shake or tile roofs, extending from the edge of the roof a minimum of 900 mm up the roof slope to a line not less than 300 mm inside the inner face of the exterior wall.
• Eave protection is not required:
  • over unheated garages, carports and porches,
  • where the roof overhang exceeds 900 mm measured along the roof slope from the edge of the roof to the inner face of the exterior wall,
  • on roofs of asphalt shingles with slopes of less than 1 in 3,
  • on roofs with slopes of 1 in 1.5 or greater, or in regions with 3,500 or fewer degree-days.

Asphalt Shingles on Slopes of 1 in 3 or Greater

A starter strip shall be installed along the lower edge of the roof so that it extends approximately 12 mm beyond the eaves and rake of the roof and fastened along the bottom edge with nails spaced not more than 300 mm o.c.

Asphalt Shingles on Slopes of less than 1 in 3

• Except for the first 2 courses, coverage shall be not less than 3 thicknesses of shingle over the entire roof, disregarding cutouts.
• A starter strip shall be installed along the lower edge of the roof so that it extends approximately 12 mm beyond the eaves and rake of the roof and fastened along the bottom edge with nails spaced not more than 300 mm o.c.
• Starter strips shall be laid in a continuous band of cement not less than 200 mm wide.

An estimate is not a contract. It will state a price for the project but won’t state other details of the work to be performed or the materials to be used. As a result, your final roofing costs may end up being much higher.

Misunderstandings are more often the cause of contract disagreement rather than actual dishonesty or incompetence. It is in your best interest that items that are important to you are stated in writing. Without a written contract covering all of the requirements of the job, you have no recourse if there are any disagreements. Worse, it will be difficult to legally enforce your position.

Problems are often discovered only after your old roof has been torn off. Unless your contract discusses how potential problems will be dealt with, you are at the contractor’s mercy because you have no roof over your head and the new roofing has to be installed to prevent further problems. The roofing costs you had budgeted may increase substantially.

Get it in Writing

In order to protect yourself and make sure that you and your contractor are on the same page, you should insist on a written contract that includes the following:

• Payment terms, clearly explained
• The dates for starting and completing the work
• Compliance with Alberta Building Code requirements
• Compliance with manufacturer’s warranty and installation requirements
• All material to be used, along with manufacturer’s name and brand name:
  • Shingles
  • Underlayment
  • Eave and leak protection
  • Flashing for drip edge, valleys, chimneys, wall, skylights
  • Vents
• Details of manufacturer’s shingle warranty

• Details of contractor’s workmanship warranty

• Details of the exact work to be performed
• Clear statement of whether the following are extras or included in the price:
  • Repair of roof deck
  • Installation of vents
  • Roof tear-off
  • Disposal of debris
• Protection against liens placed on your property
• A statement of your cancellation rights

A Reputable Contractor Won’t Mind

Getting a written contract covering all the above points is the easiest way to ensure you are dealing with a reputable, high-quality roofing contractor. Professional contractors will be happy to answer all your questions and address your concerns.

If your contractor won’t provide the required information, you might question your choice.

Skylight Flashing is Critical

Many contractors don’t understand the importance of skylight flashing; they tend to see tar and underlayments as the primary methods of protecting against leaks. In reality, your skylight flashing must be properly installed if you want a water-shedding system that will last for years to come.

Training is Key for Skylight Flashing

Because skylight flashing is such an integral part of your roofing system, it should always be installed by someone with technical experience and hands-on knowledge. This experience and knowledge should extend to an awareness of the issues related to tying skylight flashing into a variety of exterior finishings, including wood, stucco and vinyl.

It should be noted that the Alberta Building Code does not cover skylight flashing. This has resulted in a lack of proper training in the installation of skylight flashing.

Skylight Flashing Before, During, and After

This is a typical roofing scenario where there is an incorrect back pan exit on the skylight.

Click here for more information on our expert roof repairs.

Chimney flashing must be properly installed to prevent expensive leaks. When chimney flashing is installed correctly, it creates a countering system, where everything overlaps in the right direction to create positive water flow that uses gravity to draw water down and away.

Chimney Flashing Issues for Different Chimney Types

There are essentially 5 types of exteriors used on chimneys: brick, vinyl siding, wood board, stucco and cinderblock. Contractors installing chimney flashing must be experienced in working with each type because it is extremely important to properly tie the chimney flashing in with the exterior finishing. If the chimney flashing is not tied in properly, your waterproofing system may fail.

• If you have a brick chimney: Ensure that the counter-flashing is mortared in on the outside of the brick.

• If your chimney has vinyl siding: The chimney flashing must be tied into the building envelope or water will enter the ventilation holes drilled into the vinyl.

• If you have a wood board chimney: Again, the chimney flashing must be tied into the building envelope in case the wood cracks and splits.

• If your chimney has stucco on it: The stucco must be redone when re-flashing is done.

• If you have a cinderblock chimney: Ensure your contractor understands how to use gumlip, a complex counterflashing required to create water shedding with this type of chimney.

Chimney Flashing Before – Buried Flashing with No Valley Exits

This chimney leaked even though it had a brand new roofing system. The cost to the homeowner to repair this was considerable. There are no valley exits drawing the water away from the danger zones because the flashings are buried underneath the brick and cannot be serviced, repaired, or replaced.

Chimney Flashing After – Properly Exposed Exterior Flashings

A proper valley exit and flashing installation has been added to the exterior where it can be properly serviced, repaired, or replaced. This chimney will last 30 years with no more water penetration.

Chimney Cap Flashing – Before and After

Flat stock metal with silicone, compared to custom made and soldered cap.

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